Friday, September 27, 2013

Elmo Plushie

I apologize in advance if the images aren't of amazing quality, I was using my phone to catch these pictures. Also, this was just made because of a classmate asking me to make this for her. I have no affiliation with the character Elmo, or Sesame Street, or anything else related to those two. If you find any errors in the pattern, please let me know, as this hasn't been test knit as yet.

Size 6 needles (free feel to use DPNs for ease of construction or even convert it to in the round)
Tapestry needle
Around 200 yards red yarn (fun fur to look even  more similar to the actual character.
5 yards white yarn
2 yards black yarn
10 yards orange yarn

A Note On Construction:

Throughout this pattern you might see me say “Break yarn, pull through live stitches, and seam”.

To do this, break the live yarn, leaving a generous tail, which you thread through the tapestry needle.

Run the needle with the thread through the live stitches on the knitting needle, from the side furthest from the side the yarn starts on.

Pull the needle and thread through all the live stitches. Feel free to take the stitches off of the knitting needle now.

Give the needle and thread a firm tug to make sure that the stitches close up as much as they can, so your stuffing won't be spilling out everywhere. Then, sew up the remaining seam on the side.


Cast on 5 stitches in white
Knit 1 row
K 2, KFB, K2 (6)
Knit 1 row
K1 M1 K4 M1 K1 (8)
Knit 1 row
K2 white, k4 black, k2 white (3 rows)
K 1 row white
K1 K2tog K4 K2tog K1 (6)
K 1 row
K2 K2tog K2 (5)
K 1 row
Bind off. Leave a long tail.

Repeat for other eye.

You'll get two shapes like this:

Fold it in half with the right side on the inner part, so all you see is the wrong side.
Sew up the top edge of this shape, but don't do anything to the sides.

Turn it inside out, leaving the long tails as they are. You'll need them later. Repeat with the other eye.

You'll get two eyeball looking things, like so:

They may need some poking into shape.

Cast on 4
K1 M1 K2 M1 K1 (6)
Knit 1 row
*K1 M1 K1, repeat to end (10)
Knit 1 row
K1 K2tog K1, repeat to end (6)
Knit 1 row
K1 K2tog K1 (4)
Bind off, sew up the side.


Cast on 16
KFB all stitches (32)
KFB all stitches (64)
K 16 rows straight
K2tog across row (32)
K 1 row
K2tog across row (16)
k 1 row
K2tog across row (8)
k2tog across row (4)
Break thread, pull through live stitches, sew up seam.


Cast on 6
K 5 rows straight.
Break yarn, pull through live stitches, sew up seam, leaving long tail.
 Make 2.


Cast on 16
Knit 30 rows straight
k2tog all (8)
k2tog all (4)
Break thread, pull through live stitches, but DO NOT SEAM YET!


Cast on 20
Knit 35 rows straight
K2tog all (10)
K 1 row straight
k2tog all (5)
Break thread, pull through live stitches, seam up side.

Cast on 16
KFB all (32)
KFB all (64)
K 40 rows straight
K2tog all (32)
k 1 row
K2tog all (16)
k 1 row
K2tog all (8)
K2tog all (4)
Break live yarn, pull through remaining stitches on needle, seam up side


Sew face to head, with eyes close together and nose below them.

Take unseamed arm and thumb.

Lay thumb in the approximate middle of the arm, around an inch from the rounded end of the arm.

Sew it into place. Then, use the long tail from the rounded top of the arm to sew up the side seam. Use a pencil to help turn it inside out if needed. You should get something that looks like this:

Repeat for the other arm.

Stuff legs firmly without overstuffing and sew to the bottom of the body.

Stuff arms and sew to the sides of the body.

Stuff head and body, sew head to body. DO NOT OVERSTUFF

Thursday, March 28, 2013


Fold the top of the slipper in half, the side you want against your foot on the outside. The two long strips at the top should be in contact with each other.  It should look like this:

Sew ONLY THE TOPS of the strips at the end together. Use a really  long thread, for ease of attaching the sole later. This is the seam in the heel. It should look like this on the wrong side:

And like this on the right side:

Pick up the sole and hold it against the completed top. the sides you want against your feet should be on the inside. Sew the top of the slipper to the sole, being careful not to sew the hole that your foot is supposed to go through.

When you're finished sewing it up, it should look like this on the inside:

and this when you flip it right side out:

It does look a bit fat and short at the moment, but it will take on a more conventional foot shape after being worn for a while, like so:

Repeat to complete the other side of the pair.